中国范儿 48 扎染：针与线的千年穿梭

As the favorite colors of local Bai people, blue and white are also the colors of Dali city of Yunan Province. Though zharan (or tie-dyeing) has been a part of local people’s lives for so many generations, its blue and white colors have never changed since its birth. As early as over 1000 years ago, the ancestors of Bai people have learned the techniques of tie-dyeing. Their techniques matured during the East Han Dynasty and their tie-dyeing handicraft products were collected by the royal court of the Tang Dynasty as tributes. Today, tie-dyeing has become one of the most distinct handicrafts of Bai people.

扎染，是一种传统而独特的染色工艺，是织物在染色时部分结扎起来使之不能着色的染色方法。它有一百多种变化技法，各有特色。因为人们在缝扎时针脚不一、染料浸染的程度不一，带有一定的随意性，染出的成品很少一模一样，增添了其中的艺术意味。这种独特的艺术效果，是机械印染工艺难以达到的。2006年，云南大理的白族扎染技艺被文化部列入国家级非物质文化遗产。

Zharan is a unique and traditional tie-dyeing technique. The secret of zharan is to restrict the dye from reaching certain areas of the cloth. There are over 100 tie-dye patterns popular among the Bai people and each of them is unique indeed. Generally speaking, local craftsmen are pretty liberal with the stitches and the dyeing degrees of specific pieces. As a result, the final products usually demonstrate strong personal preferences of the craftsmen. That is why no two tie-dyeing products are the same. Such arbitrariness also brought about the diverse artistic styles of tie-dyeing, some of which can never be achieved by industrial methods. In 2006, approved by the Ministry of Culture, tie-dyeing was included in the list of Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage.

扎染的制作方法别具一格，先设计出图案，用刺了洞的蜡纸在白布上刷印，再按图案用针线扎花，送到扎染坊。

Handmade Tie-dyeing is a long process. First, the craftsmen have to design the pattern and copy it on a white cloth by using a punctured wax paper. Then they need to stitch and knot the white cloth according to the pattern. Once this is done, the next step is dyeing.

其中，技术的关键是扎花手法和浸染技艺。扎花，即在布料选好后，按花纹图案要求，用针线缝合或缠扎，将其扎紧缝严，让布料变成一串串“疙瘩”。

The crux of tie-dyeing technique lies in stitching and dipping. After the selection of cloth material, according to the requirement of the motif and pattern, the craftsmen take various methods to make the cloth become certain shapes and then stitch, bind and tighten them, so strings of “knots” appear on the material.

浸染，则是先将扎好“疙瘩”的布料先用清水浸泡一下，再放入染缸里。浸染时的主要染料是板蓝根，先将其泡出水，注到木制的大染缸里，加入石灰，就可以用来染布。浸泡一定时间后捞出晾干，然后再将布料放入染缸浸染。如此反复，每浸一次色深一层，即“青出于蓝”。浸染到一定程度后，捞出放入清水将多余的染料漂除。

Dip-dyeing means that the makers dip and wash the well-made “knots” with clean water and then put them in a dye vat. The pigment for dip-dyeing is extracted from Radix isatidis root. The makers soak the Radix isatidis root in water and after that put it into a wooden vat, covered with lime. After a certain period of time, it is taken out and air dried, and then the cloth is put in the dye vat again, and the procedure aforementioned should be repeated for several times. After each time, the cloth will become more “blue”. When the cloth is sufficiently dip-dyed, the makers will wash away the remnant pigment with clean water.

等晾干后将“疙瘩”挑开，熨平整，被线扎缠缝合的部分末受色，呈现出空心状的白布色，便是“花”，其余部分成深蓝色，即是“地”，就会出现蓝底白花的图案花纹。至此，一块漂亮的扎染布就完成了。染出的布不仅色彩鲜艳、永不褪色，而且对皮肤有消炎保健作用，克服了现代化学染料有害人体健康的副作用。

The “knots” will be untied and evened out after the cloth is thoroughly dried. The parts which have been stitched remain white as the dyes fail to reach them. People call them “flowers”. The remnant part becomes a background of indigo and is called “earth” (di). So, the whole cloth is featured with the indigo background and white patterns. Then an exquisite tie-dyeing cloth is finally in front of us. The tie-dyeing cloth of Bai people has gorgeous colors, which are less apt to fade away. Moreover, compared with dyed fabrics through the chemical process, tie-dyeing cloth made this way is much healthier for the human skin.

大理白族扎染显示出浓郁的民间艺术风格，1000多种纹样是千百年来白族历史文化的缩影。近年来，白族妇女在图案艺术、古代结扎技法和现代印染工艺相结合的基础上，推陈出新，还发展了彩色扎染等新的手工印染技术。

Dali Bai tie-dyeing cloth displays an artistic style with strong ethnic flavors. The 1,000 or more tie-dye designs are the epitomes of the long history and unique culture of the Bai people. In recent years, women of the Bai ethnic group borrowed some techniques from the modern dyeing industry and improved their pattern design and stitching skills correspondingly. On this basis, they also developed new techniques like multi-colored tie-dyeing.

如今，扎染不仅代表着一种传统，而且已成为一种时尚。扎染在人们心目中已成为云南大理最特殊的文化象征之一和民族传统艺术的标徽。

Today, tie-dyeing is not only an epitome of the tradition but also an inspiration for modern fashion. For many people, tie-dyeing has become the most special and famous symbol of Dali city and the traditional art of the Bai people.

来源：中国网

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